Here we go a-wassailing
By Dawn Goodman
Throw in some cinnamon, perhaps some cloves, and maybe an alcoholic cider base or a key lime base.

A few more ingredients and you have the recipe for the annual Zibrida family “Wassail-Off.”

It all started around 2000, when Washington resident Tom Zibrida made his family a warm concoction he called wassail.

“It somehow struck the right chord with us and we started making our own versions of this ale- or sherry-based warm drink,” says his son, Joe Zibrida.

After a few years of amateur wassailing, Tom Zibrida created the Wassail Trophy in 2002 and the game was on.

The trophy is made from the mess cup he used as a Marine in the Vietnam War.

Whoever makes the best wassail is awarded the cup to keep for a year. And just like the Stanley Cup, the winner’s name is inscribed on the trophy for all eternity.

So far, the wassailiers have been limited to family members – Tom, his wife, Melinda, brothers Mike and Joe Zibrida, brother-inlaw Todd Ashmore and cousin Matt Miller.

However, guests are always welcome to attend the Wassail-Off, which is held around Christmastime.

“In fact, they are encouraged since every adult at the Wassail-Off gets to vote,” Joe says.

Nobody ever uses the same recipe twice. And the contestants usually throw a little of this and a little of that in to try to get the taste just right.

During the competition, the “Wassail Wench” distributes a sample of each wassail in a numbered cup.

Each taster rates their three favorites.

A taster’s first choice gets 3 points; second, 2 points, and third, 1 point. The points are tallied, and the champion is announced.

After much fanfare, the Wassail Cup is transferred from the prior champion to the new one.

As of October, Tom is in the lead with three wins. Mike, Todd and Joe are each tied with two wins apiece. There have been no back-to-back winners.

“Sometimes you also experience the agony of defeat,” Joe says. “I had high hopes for my pumpkin wassail a few years ago, but it came out so thick you had to eat it with a spoon.”

For several years, Matt judged the contest. He’s only been a contestant for the past two years. Perhaps that is why he is yet to take home the trophy.

“Historically, no,” Matt says when asked if he makes the best wassail in the family.

“But this year? Yeah, still no.”

Todd tends to stick to an alcoholic apple cider base. One year he even fermented his own apples.

“I don’t have the trophy from last year, but I will say, yes,” Todd says, laughing about whether he makes the best wassail.

While some of them make a few batches to get it just right, Todd says he just throws it together on the stove the day of the competition.

“I’m a little more last-minute,” he says.

Over time the wassails have grown more elaborate.

Tom has found victory with creamy wassails based on whipped egg whites.

Todd has used the cider he made himself.

Mike won one year with a key lime pie wassail, complete with ground graham cracker garnish. That year, Mike was serving in the Army in Iraq. He submitted his recipe and a surrogate put it together for the competition. The recipe won, and the Wassail Cup was shipped to him in Iraq.

Although the competition is fun, it more importantly allows them to get together as a family, Joe says. He will come from Massachusetts and Mike will come from Rhode Island to participate.

“The cup that has been in Vietnam and Iraq ties us together wherever we are,” he says.

The family is extremely close, Matt says. “Ever since I was a child, this side of my family has held a very special place in my heart,” he says. “Laughter and great homecooked food are central to this family.

Their homes are always warm and welcoming, especially come the holiday season.”

Wassail

¦ Makes: 20 servings

Ingredients

  • 1 cup sugar
  • 2 cups orange juice
  • 4 cinnamon sticks
  • 6 cups claret (I have occasionally used Taylor Lake Country Red)
  • Lemon slices
  • 1⁄2 cup lemon juice
  • 2 cups pineapple juice
  • 1 cup dry sherry

Boil sugar, cinnamon sticks and 3 lemon slices in ⁄ 2 cup water for 5 minutes and strain. Heat, but do not boil, the remaining ingredients.

Combine with syrup, garnish with lemon slices and serve hot.

From “The Williamsburg Cookbook,” 1971 edition; provided by Jill Stuart Moncilovich of Washington

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