Think hard before removing gutters from a house
Q. We live in a one-level, ranch-style home. I can no longer go through another winter of frozen gutters, ice dams, and water finding a way into our home. I would like to remove the gutters from the house. Would this solve any or all of these problems? Are there any drawbacks to removing them? Are there other solutions not so expensive?
A. It is possible to take off gutters without dire results, but the presence of or lack of them does not cause ice dams. The only cause of ice dams (and their leaks) is a warm roof, although in some rare cases people who have raked their roofs free of snow claim that it stops ice dams and leaks. My house, nearly 250 years old, does not have gutters on the main part, but has heavy insulation on the attic floor, good ventilation from soffit vents, and a high-up roof vent, making a cold roof, and I have not had ice dams or leaks from ice dams in the 49 years I have lived in it.
As I said, it is possible to take off the gutters, but before you do, consider these three things:
• The position of the gutters: If water drips too close to the front of the gutter, water will overflow, causing huge icicles. If water drips too close to the back of the gutter, water will overflow, running down the wall, under the roof overhang, and into the house. Correcting these defects can help stop the ice dams and leaks.
• There must be an overhang of 6 inches and more, to allow dripping water to clear the house.
• There must be a clear area on the ground free of plants and usually filled with crushed stone, for the water to drip on and be absorbed into the earth, or diverted away from the foundation by a concrete platform or apron.
Any drawbacks on removing gutters? Yes, two:
• A two-sloped roof, like a gabled roof, will allow a lot of water to run over each edge, perhaps too much. A hip roof, like mine, has four slopes from a center peak, allowing half the water to run over each edge as the edges of a gabled roof.
• A lot of water falling on the ground may allow it to penetrate the earth and cause basement leaks.
Q. I am interested in finishing off my basement and I was wondering if you had any thoughts on the most cost-effective approach to soundproofing this space. My basement has 10-foot walls with joists between the basement and first floor. There is batt fiberglass insulation there already. We were going to put up one layer of Sheetrock. We are trying to minimize the noise between the basement and first floor. Do you know if the brand Quietrock Sheetrock would be an advantage to use?
A. With concrete walls and insulation in the ceiling, there is one more thing you need to do, other than add a layer of glass to windows. The ceiling is most critical, and putting up a ceiling that is separate from the existing joists is the best you can do.
The Quietrock Sheetrock is a sound absorbing board that will work best if it is separate from the old ceiling. You could also insulate the door leading to the first floor with a layer of Homasote.
The best way to install walls is to use an Owens Corning insulated wall system, which is only a few inches thick and is as effective as, or better than any other system. It is professionally installed.