Use a zinc strip to ward off roof moss
Q. My family room is attached to the house and has a two-slope, gabled roof. Moss grows on one side, so much that is becomes thick and water-logged, and water backs up under the shingles and causes stains on the cathedral ceiling. I replaced the roof plywood that needed it and put in new shingles, and a 6-foot-high ice and water shield. How can I get rid of the moss and keep it away?
ALBERT CHATEL, New Hampshire
A. The moss acted like an ice dam, blocking the flow of water and backing it up under the shingles. The ice and water shield was not high enough to stop the water, so when you reroof you can put an ice and water shield on the entire roof.
In the meantime, kill the moss by dousing it with vinegar. In a day or two, wet the moss, then scrape it off with a wood scraper or roof rake (carefully). You can keep the moss (and mold and algae) away by installing a zinc strip under the highest strip of shingles next to the ridge. With 3 inches of zinc exposed, rain will run down the roof, bringing bits of dissolved zinc down the roof, preventing new growth.
Q. My roof has some white spots that a friend called lichen. How can I get rid of them? Also, I have a lot of old sheet music that I want to sell, but I have to take off address labels first. The labels were the lick-’em-and-place kind. How can I remove them?
JOAN MEELY, Melrose
A. Another friend will tell you the spots are indeed lichen, a symbiotic combination of a fungus (mold) and algae. Live with them; they are harmless and often are difficult to remove without ruining the shingles. Sometimes soaking with water and lightly scraping with a wood spatula will work, but if they don’t yield fairly quickly, leave them alone.
For the sheet music, the adhesive is water based, so soak the labels with a little water until they come off with a little help.
Q. My Pergo kitchen floor was flooded by a leak, causing the Pergo to become waterlogged and buckled. Someone mentioned replacing with linoleum, and the store said to use Pergo again. What’s best, do you think?
A HOT LINE CALLER
A. The idea of linoleum is good, and the Pergo proved its uselessness, so I suggest ceramic tile. It won’t cost that much on a 10-by-4 floor, it will last indefinitely, and is relatively resistant to water leaks. Put it down with thin-set mortar.
Here’s a friendly note from Denn Santoro of Rochester on the use of adhesives in installing ceramic and porcelain tile: “I see you regularly recommend mud jobs for putting down ceramic tile. I have had good results using mastic, both on Durock on walls (porcelain fireplace surround), subfloor plywood (1 inch ceramic in a hallway and master bath on 3/4-inch ply), and specialized tile backing board (12 inch ceramic on the floor of a mudroom).
I wonder why you see mud as better than mastic. I’m planning on doing the kitchen floor. (Old house with various sloping in three directions in that area, so I’ll be using 1- to 2-inch tile on lauan nailed to the old subfloor.) I am planning again to use mastic, especially to avoid wetting the lauan but thought I would get your opinion first.”
The Handyman replies: I simply like thin-set mortar better because it holds ferociously, is easy to work with, and sets relatively quickly. Although I have been told never to put ceramic tile on a wood floor, I found that it works well on plywood, concrete, and other surfaces. One advantage to mastic is that it can be removed quite easily by inserting a chisel under an edge and prying. They generally pop up.
Q. Birds have gotten between my Gutter Helmet guards and aluminum gutters, and are blocking water flow. How can I keep them out?
JOHN LENTINI, Norwood
A. Call Gutter Helmet to see if that gap can be closed. For you both, covering gaps with 1/4-inch steel mesh can keep them at bay. For the gutter, screw on the screen with aluminum or stainless steel sheet metal screws. For the air conditioner, devise a cage to keep the birds out from under.