Peter Reinhart rethinks baking with sprouted grain
Peter Reinhart is a baker unafraid of reinvention and challenging the norms of his field.
His career – now chronicled over the course of nine cookbooks – shows him repeatedly asking “Why not?” about challenges that stymie so many bakers. Why not break down artisanal recipes to make intricate breads accessible to home bakers? Why not rework whole-grain goodies to make them taste as light and airy as their all-purpose cousins? Why not make gluten-free, sugar-free baking taste great?
And now? Why not demystify the up-and-coming world of so-called sprouted grains?
In his latest book, “Bread Revolution,” Reinhart – a faculty member at Johnson and Wales University in Charlotte, N.C., and recipient of four James Beard awards – has taken a deep dive into sprouted and heirloom grains, walking readers through the challenges and rewards of working with these increasingly popular flours and grains.
Sprouted Wheat Quick Bread or Muffins with Streusel Topping
Makes:1 large loaf or 18 muffins
• Ingredients
For the streusel
1/2 cup sprouted flour (any variety)
1/2 cup granulated or brown sugar
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
For the batter
3 3/4 cups sprouted wheat flour
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baking powder
1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons packed brown sugar
2 cups buttermilk
3 eggs, slightly beaten
3/4 cup vegetable oil or melted unsalted butter
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Position a rack in the middle of the oven and heat to 350 degrees. If making a bread, coat a 4 1/2-inch-by-8-inch loaf pan with cooking spray or melted butter, then dust with sprouted flour. If making muffins, line a 12-cup muffin pan with paper liners, then mist the liners with cooking spray. If making muffins, prepare 2 muffin pans or work in batches.
To prepare the streusel: In a small bowl stir together the flour, sugar, salt and cinnamon. Melt the butter, then pour it in and stir until evenly distributed. Use your fingers to break the mixture into fine crumbs. If it’s too warm to crumble, wait for it to cool, then crumble it again. Alternatively, use cold butter and pulse all the ingredients in a food processor until the texture resembles fine cornmeal. Set aside.
To prepare the batter: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or in a large bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Mix on low speed. Stir in the sugar.
In a separate bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, eggs, oil and vanilla extract, then pour into the flour mixture. Mix or stir until the flour is hydrated and all the ingredients are well combined, about 1 minute. The result should be a thick batter, which will thicken further as it sits. Transfer the batter to the prepared pan, filling a loaf pan to within 3/4 inch of the rim and muffin cups to just below the rim.
Sprinkle the streusel topping over the top of the loaf or muffins. Bake for 20 minutes for muffins or 30 minutes for a loaf, then rotate the pan and bake for another 15 to 20 minutes for muffins, or another 25 to 35 minutes for a loaf, or until the top is golden brown and springy to the touch and a toothpick inserted at the center comes out clean.
Let cool in the pan for at least 15 minutes for muffins or 30 minutes for a loaf. Turn out onto a wire rack and let cool for at least 10 minutes longer for muffins or 30 minutes longer for a loaf before serving.