May 30, 2015 5 min read

Q. My question has two parts. To give you some background, we live in a house that is 125 to 150 years old. About two years ago, we had our kitchen redone — soup to nuts — and had a ceramic tile floor installed.

After a few weeks, the grout in certain spots began to break up and come out between the tiles. (Previously there had been a ceramic-tile floor there, but we didn’t have a problem with that grout.) I’m pretty sure the contractor laid the subfloor properly. (At least that’s what he claims.) I think he used some type of cement board over plywood, and then laid the tiles. The contractor claims the grout is coming out because the house is old and the floor gives too much. (We had already added a couple of braces in the basement for support.) The contractor brought in a tile guy, who said they were not stuck down well enough, causing them to shift and the grout to break up. The contractor, however, doesn’t buy his explanation.

What do you think is going on? Do you have suggestions for repairing it? I’ve heard that there is some kind of flexible grout.

A. A few weeks, seriously?

My first question is why did he install tile over a bouncy floor? He should have advised you and remedied this condition further first. Floor movement can definitely cause grout to fail and tiles to crack.

My second thought is that the installer might have mixed in too much water with the grout or perhaps the grout was bad or old. Floor grout can fail for a host of reasons, some of which have nothing to do with the installation.

What does the “scope of work” description in your contract say about the tile installation? Hopefully the contractor detailed how he was installing these items. Most do not! Was the cement board installed with thin-set mortar and screws or jet screws?

I’d suggest having an independent installer look at the floor and maybe pull a tile up to determine whether the proper amount of thin set was used.

One solution would be to have the installer dig out and replace the grout and see whether it happens again.

Q. We live in a post-and-beam-style home. The roof rafters are 4-inch-by-6-inch timbers, 24 inches on center. Above the rafters are half-inch pine boards, and over them are stress-skin panels with half-inch sheetrock, 4.5 inches of urethane foam board, and a half inch of particle board. Fiberglass shingles are above that with a 1-inch gap between the particle board and the roof shingles.

All of our walls are also composed of stress-skin panels, but they have 3.5 inches of urethane foam boards instead of the 4.5.

All of our posts and beams are 8-inch-by-8-inch timbers. The house was built in 1986. Most of our ceilings are cathedral.

Would our roof be less susceptible to damage with large amounts of snow? Do the stress-skin panels provide more capability for higher snow loads?

We’ve never had a problem with ice dams, and there are no gutters on the main roof.

A. That’s a really tough question with no easy answer. It depends on the roof-system geometry, species of wood, and loading conditions. I wouldn’t say a timber frame with stress skins is any stronger structurally than a regular-framed home. Each building must be evaluated as a unique structure. Sorry!

Q. Thanks for your informative reports. I’ve learned a lot! I live in an older home, built around the 1920s. The furnace has been updated, but I know other things are needed – a new roof and windows and updated plumbing, electrical, and insulation. I am considering whether to hire a home inspector to help determine and prioritize the repairs. I would be able to chip away on recommended repairs and feel confident that all areas have been checked. Should I contact three home inspectors, request references, and ask for estimates of what an inspection would cost? Is there a standard checklist that all home inspectors follow? Are there any risks in hiring a home inspector, such as code violations that would be reported and require unexpected repairs? Any other alternative I should consider? Thanks.

A. If you needed an operation on your heart, would you go to a general practitioner or to a cardiac surgeon?

The same applies to home inspectors; they’re generalists, not certified specialists. If you want to add insult to injury, hiring one of them will run you $300 to $500, and you will get only recommendations, not fixed replacement or repair costs.

My advice to clients in these situations is to ask specialists for their recommendations and costs specific to the tasks they perform. I’d start by contacting the contractors you’ve used and trust for advice. If you don’t know any, ask friends, family, or your local lumberyard or hardware store for a referral. Check references!

I’d start with the roof, because a leaking one can ruin the rest of the house. Get an evaluation on the condition of the roofing, flashing, and however many layers you have. Ask for the replacement cost, if applicable, and request insurance and references.

I’d then have an electrician and a plumber evaluate your systems. Lastly, I’d contact a local and trusted contractor and discuss which windows would meet your energy efficiency needs but also add to the curb appeal of your home.