Niagara offers fine wine and food with a view
It all starts with three L’s: latitude, lakes and limestone. That magical combination creates a unique terroir in the Niagara Region that excels in growing cool-climate grape varieties and results in sumptuous wine.
It makes sense when you see a map of Burgundy, France; Ontario, Canada; and Napa Valley, Calif., all at similar latitudes. Yet wine tastings are just the start of the fun you’ll discover at Niagara-on-the-Lake in Southern Ontario.
Situated on the shores of Lake Ontario and along the Niagara River, Niagara-on-the-Lake is well known for its wineries, outstanding theater offerings and the memorable Victorian charm of flower-lined Queen Street and 19th century architecture.
We headed north, breezed across the U.S.-Canadian border and were standing awestruck in front of Niagara Falls in just over four hours.

Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
Grapevines at Riverview Cellars Estate Winery
Niagara Falls – both the U.S. and Canadian sides – are a wonderful starting point for a quick getaway, with the strong U.S. dollar giving good value to travelers in Canada and plenty of affordable hotel and dining options. The falls themselves are mesmerizing, but if you can pull yourself away from that view, you’ll find equally stunning scenery along Niagara Parkway on the short 25-minute drive north to Niagara-on-the-Lake. Along the way, you’ll see the cable car that transports visitors across the Niagara River’s whirlpool area, a Buddhist temple, sprawling scenic overlooks and luxurious vacation estates that are just as vast as the landscape.
It’s easy to get overwhelmed by the more than 20 wineries nestled in this area. We had many recommendations, but the truth is that there’s no wrong choice.
First, we stopped at Riverview Cellars Estate Winery on the way into town, and were met by smiling faces, friendly locals and luscious wine samples. Here, we learned all about the region’s famous icewine, which is wine produced from grapes frozen on the vine. It’s a concentrated, extremely sweet dessert wine that is popular around the world.
We got a first-rate recommendation for lunch from one of the wine experts there and headed up the road to Caroline Cellars Family Estate Winery and their onsite restaurant, the Farmhouse Cafe. By this time, we were hungry and this place did not disappoint. Locally-sourced ingredients and produce grown on-site go into specialties such as a fluffy eggplant frittata, homemade cream of mushroom soup and the Canadian favorite, poutine – french fries, gravy, cheese curds – topped with buffalo chicken and blue cheese crumbles.
We couldn’t have been any happier when we finished lunch, but then we saw our hotel and were even more thrilled. The Prince of Wales Hotel on the main drag in town is not only a landmark, it’s a luxurious Victorian wonderland where you’ll be pampered with everything from a spa to afternoon tea to beautifully-appointed guestrooms and attention to every detail.

Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
Prince of Wales Hotel in Niagara-on-the-Lake
The hotel dates to the 1860s but has been painstakingly renovated. Step outside and you’re a block away from quaint, vintage shops and bakeries and the prestigious Shaw Theatre, home to one of North America’s best theater companies. We booked off-season (still a bit chilly) but that meant rooms were available and much less expensive than during peak summer months. Dinner at Noble Restaurant inside the Prince of Wales hotel offered tender lamb shank, perfectly-cooked steak and more delectable Ontario wines.
The contrast between the smaller wineries and some larger ones is interesting here, and we had to stop at one of the newest ventures. It seems appropriate that the country’s greatest hockey player has gotten into the wine business.

Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
Wayne Gretzky memorabilia at Wayne Gretzky Cellars Estates and Distillery
The Great One himself opened Wayne Gretzky Estates Winery and recently added a distillery in the heart of Niagara’s wine country. It’s a large operation, boasting 23,000 square feet built in the style of a modern barn and adorned all over with keepsakes, family photos and mementos of Gretzky’s incredible career. If you like hockey, wine and whisky, this is your place.
Again, the off-season treated us to a more leisurely visit, no crowds and a wine tasting by the fireplace upstairs, where we had the place and our wine expert all to ourselves. Across the sidewalk, we stopped in at the new distillery and learned how adding a drop or two of water can completely change the flavor of your whisky.
Sadly, it was time to leave the next morning, meaning we missed out on the chance to have traditional afternoon tea at the Prince of Wales’ Victorian Drawing Room. Instead, we followed a tip to head to Nina Gelateria & Pastry Shop just down the block for a hearty breakfast. Words cannot describe the delectable treats, handmade pastries and French macarons created here.

Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
Pastries at Nina Gelateria & Pastry Shop
Did I mention the homemade gelato made from ingredients imported from Italy? The owner/operator is a second generation Swiss born and trained pastry chef who whips up her own crepe mix daily. The hardest decision was whether to try a sweet crepe, such as the homemade chocolate hazelnut spread and banana combo, or to go bold with a savory creation of prosciutto, fresh spinach and brie.
After savoring our final bite of fresh crepes and steaming, bold coffee, we bid farewell to our first visit to Niagara-on-the-Lake. Hopefully, there will be many return trips.
- Make sure you have your passport. You won’t be allowed entry into Canada or to return to the United States without one.
- The Niagara region is just under a five-hour drive, making it a nice gas-tank getaway.
- Allow time for a scenic stop at nearby Niagara Falls, just 20 minutes south of Niagara-on-the-Lake.
- Summer is the busiest and the most expensive time to visit and is packed with events and festivals. Try visiting during “shoulder season” in spring or fall for fewer crowds, lower prices and a more relaxed pace.
Where To Stay, Eat & Drink
- Prince of Wales Hotel, 6 Picton Street, Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON, Canada. Vintage hotel dating back to 1864 at the corner of Picton & King Streets in the heart of town. Modern amenities set amid luxurious Victorian décor within walking distance of shops and restaurants.
- Nina Gelateria & Pastry Shop, 37 Queen Street, Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON, Canada. A must visit for homemade breakfast sweet or savory crepes, steaming coffee drinks, homemade gelato and handmade pastries and macarons. Owned and operated by a Swiss born and trained pastry chef. Bring your appetite!
- Riverview Cellars Estate Winery, 15376 Niagara Parkway R.R. #1, Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON, Canada. Open daily. Small, family winery set on what used to be a fruit farm. Sample the delicious Gewurztraminer, Vidal Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon while chatting with the incredibly friendly and knowledgeable staff.
- The Farmhouse Café at Caroline Cellars Family Estate Winery, 1010 Line 2 Road, Virgil, ON, Canada. Come to sample the wine and stay for the amazing frittatas, poutine, charcuterie, salads and more featuring locally sourced food and produce grown on site.
- Wayne Gretzky Estates Winery & Distillery, 1219 Niagara Stone Road, Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON, Canada. Open daily. Larger winery and new distillery featuring Canadian whisky and a tasty array of vintages along with an entertaining display of Gretzky’s family and hockey memorabilia and mementos.