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Locally Carei: Pierogi, a versatile pocket pie

5 min read
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Growing up in a predominately Italian town in Southern New Jersey, I do not remember eating hlushki and halupki. But pierogi was a different story. We had them enough times to be up there as a favorite childhood food. And they continue to be so.

Of course, ours were of the most popular American version – filled with cheese, onion and potato. And this is where it gets complicated: that is called the “ruskie” perogie. Most people think it is the Russian perogie, but it is not. It came from the pre-World War II Ruthenian region of Poland, which is now part of the Ukraine, which ironically was at one time part of Russia after WWII All this to make the pierogi match its namesake?

Pierogi have been recorded to be made for over 800 years. But food historians feel it has been around for a couple of millenniums. Some type of pocket pie has been part of many cultures for that and even longer. Any culture that has had gluten-type flour has created a similar culinary treat. The Chinese have dumplings, Italians with ravioli, Japanese with gyoza and South Americans with a fried or baked version of empanadas.

Pierogi is the plural tense of the word. The singular version of pierog is rarely used. I’m sure it is because – who eats just one pierog, anyway? Pierogi have many fillings, and our American favorite, the “ruskie” pierogi, is not even close to the most popular. Pierogi are also filled with ground meats, cabbage, mushrooms, braised meats and vegetables. There are also sweet pierogi filled with sweet cheese, berries and other fruits. There are so many types of pierogi that there are restaurants called Pierogarnia in Poland. They specialize in, you guessed it, a variety of pierogi.

Although not a fan of commercially frozen pierogi, your pierogi are easily frozen. Sealed correctly, they will prep up nicely, once thawed. This is good news, as you really do not want to make the effort to only make a dozen or two. Make lots for later, too. Do not boil pierogi before freezing.

Pierogi can be cooked different ways – noiled, sautéed and/or fried. It is almost always boiled first. When put into a pot of salted boiling water, they will sink to the bottom. Initially, gently keep moving to keep off the bottom or they will stick. When they float, they will be nearly done, which will take about 7 minutes. After draining, you can choose to serve at once. But for many, they are then sautéed with butter and maybe some onions, bacon or mushrooms for flavor. It is on occasion, deep fried.

Now you may not erect a statue to the pierogi like they did in Alberta, Canada. But, after eating your pierogi, you can understand why they did.

Pierogi Dough

Ingredients

3 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup sour cream

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

2/3 cup warm water

1 egg, beaten

1 yolk

In a large bowl mix together the flour, salt, and baking powder. Make a well in the center.

In a separate bowl, mix together the sour cream, warm water, and beaten egg and yolk. Pour into the well of the dry ingredients. Pull dry into wet and when incorporated, knead dough for 6-8 minutes. If using a mixer and dough hook, knead until smooth. Let rest at least 30 minutes. Roll and cut with a round cookie cutter, biscuit cutter or drinking glass. Put one tablespoon of desire filling in center. Fold pierogi circle edge to edge and crimp with fork. For better crimp, wet edges first. For firmer dough, add another yolk.

Ruskie Pierogi Potato and Cheddar Filling

Ingredients

1 pound peeled and cubed potato

½ teaspoon salt

Pepper

1 cup shredded cheddar cheese

3 tablespoons minced onion

Boil off potatoes until soft and drain thoroughly. Mash potatoes and add rest of ingredients. Adjust taste with salt and pepper. Recipe makes enough for about three dozen pierogi.

Kapusta Pierogi (Sauerkraut and Mushroom)

Ingredients

1 medium onion, minced

¼ cup butter

½ pound chopped mushrooms

1 pound sauerkraut, drained

Salt and pepper

Sauté onions in butter until almost caramelized, then add mushrooms. Cook until mushrooms are fully cooked and nearly dry. Add sauerkraut and cook for 10 minutes, then add sour cream. Adjust taste with salt and pepper. Fill pierogi discs. Boil and serve, or brown with butter and onions and/or bacon.

Berry Pierogi

Ingredients

½ cup sugar

1 tablespoon flour

2 cups fresh or frozen berries

1/3 cup ricotta cheese

2 tablespoons melted butter

Confectioner’s sugar if desired

½ cup sour cream

1 tablespoon brown sugar

Mix together sugar, flour and ricotta cheese. Fold in berries. Fill pierogi discs. Drop in boiling water for about 10 minutes then drain. Brush with butter if desired. Let cool to room temperature. Top with powdered sugar. Mix sour cream and brown sugar, and place dollop on top.

Chef Joe Carei has been an award-winning chef in Fayette County nearly half of his life. The former PA Restaurateur of the Year operates Ellie Mae’s Catering and Food Clubs. He can be reached at joe@elliemaescatering.com.

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