Locally Carei: Gazpacho can be really refreshing
The best way to research and get the best recipe is to go to the source. My source of gazpacho is Chef Javier Gonzales-Bringas from Madrid, Spain, and owner of Tempranillo Restaurant. I usually help him out at the Food and Wine Classic in Aspen preparing Spanish foods. He is the king of gazpacho.
Gazpacho in one way of another has been around since the dark ages. It was a kind of bread soup, which was paired with olive oil, garlic, vinegar and a variety of ingredients. Ajo blanco (white gazpacho), which is made with the aforementioned ingredients plus almonds, was known to be made as far back as the eighth century.
Gazpacho was thought to originate from Andalusia region in southern Spain. It was, and still is, mainly farmland producing almonds, olives, garlic, citrus and grapes. Farm workers were usually only given stale bread and olive oil for their meals. They ground the bread and oil together to make a base for the soup and added ground up garlic, vegetables, nuts and fruits from the fields. With the addition of water and/or vinegar, it made a great thirst-quenching and nourishing soup for working in the hot sun. It caught on and made its way all over Spain and evolved.
In the 15th century, Christopher Columbus was also known to bring a kind of gazpacho to the Americas with him on his trip to the new world. Incidentally he returned to Spain with tomato, pepper and cucumber seeds whose fruits have become integral ingredients for the most popular gazpacho today. The tomato, although originating in the Americas, was perfected by the Spaniards. It took about 200 years after the first tomato seeds were brought to Spain in the 1500 to gain a culinary foothold and to flourish, especially in gazpacho.
The most popular gazpacho is a cold vegetable soup made with tomatoes, peppers, onions and cucumbers. It is like a liquid salad. You will find this in most refrigerators all over Spain during the warmer months. It is as popular as sweet tea in the South. Salmorejo gazpacho is also made with tomatoes as its main ingredient. It keeps in line with simple ingredients – bread, olive oil, garlic and vinegar – and is thicker and smoother. It may be pureed with stone fruit. It is also found to be garnished with other ingredients like egg and ham. Like the craft beers of today, gazpacho has many variations. It is made with any fruit or vegetable you can name. I came across several versions of watermelon gazpacho in my recent travels. But there is also green gazpacho, strawberry gazpacho, pear gazpacho, asparagus gazpacho and even chocolate gazpacho. But, I do draw the line at broccoli gazpacho. It should have never been attempted.
So if you are looking for something close at hand that is really refreshing, whip up a batch of gazpacho.
Gazpacho
Ingredients
5 slices bread or equivalent (rolls, ciabatta or focaccia); I prefer focaccia
4 cloves garlic
3/8 cup olive oil
1½ pounds tomato
2 peppers
2 small cucumbers
Medium onion
2 green onions
Jalapeño pepper (optional)
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
1/3 cup sherry or red wine vinegar
Salt and pepper
2 cups water
Cube 1 slice of bread and toast for croutons. Process 4 slices of bread, garlic and olive oil to a paste, set aside.
In processor or blender coarsely chop all other vegetables; set aside 1/3 of mixture.
Puree remaining chopped vegetables with garlic bread paste.
Strain and add vinegar. Add 2 cups of water of water, reserved chopped vegetables and cilantro. Let sit a couple of hours and then taste and adjust with salt and pepper. You may need to add up to another 16 ounces of water and an adjustment with vinegar. Serve and garnish with toasted croutons.
Strawberry Gazpacho
Ingredients
Large tomato
Small red pepper
Small cucumber
Jalapeño pepper (optional)
Quart strawberries
Clove garlic
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro or mint
2 tablespoons balsamic or sherry vinegar
3 tablespoons olive oil
Slice of bread torn up
½ cup water or apple juice
Salt and pepper
Mix together bread and olive oil, set aside. In blender or food processor, chop vegetables until chunky. Set aside ½ of mixture. Keep other half in processor. Add olive oil/bread along with vinegar and puree. Mix puree with reserved chunky vegetables. Add salt and pepper to taste. Chill for a couple of hours. Add water/juice and adjust taste with vinegar.
Ajo Blanco
Ingredients
2/3 cup lightly toasted almonds
2 cloves garlic, smashed
1 1/2 cups white grapes
1 ½ cups almond milk
2 slices bread cubed
3 tablespoons sherry vinegar
3 tablespoons olive or walnut oil
½ cup heavy cream
Mix together bread and olive oil. In processor or blender, put almonds, garlic, grapes, and bread. Process while adding almond milk. Strain and place into refrigerator until chilled. Before serving, whip heavy cream and fold into soup. Serve.
Chef Joe Carei has been an award-winning chef in Fayette County nearly half of his life. The former PA Restaurateur of the Year now operates Ellie Mae’s Catering and Food Clubs. He can be reached at joe@elliemaescatering.com.