All the Sierra snow: Grab your skis and head to South Lake Tahoe
Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
Apres ski at Heavenly Village by the gondola
Photos: Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
Soaking in the heat and sun at Carson Hot Springs
Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
Scenic lake sunset at Chart House restaurant
Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
The views of Lake Tahoe from atop the slopes at Heavenly Resort
Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
Lake Tahoe under sunny skies as seen from atop the slope at Heavenly Resort
Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
Snowmobiling tour in the Sierras
Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
Skiing across the California-Nevada state line
Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
Snow tubing on the Nevada side
You’ve seen the unreal video of mountains of snow the past month and jaw-dropping photos of homes and buildings so buried in white mounds that California and Nevada residents around Lake Tahoe have had to shovel roofs and tunnel their way to the front doorstep.
When I booked a bucket list ski trip to Lake Tahoe early last fall, I was hoping there would be plenty of snow. I had no idea that the skies would open and drop more than 530 inches (that’s more than 44 feet) of snow on South Lake Tahoe this season. Can you have too much of a good thing?
You would think ski resorts would say no, but the snow has been so heavy and incessant that resorts around the alpine lake have actually shut down several days so crews could dig out, make it to work, then start digging out the parking lots and ski lifts to enable crowds to enjoy the fresh powder.
This was my first trip to Lake Tahoe, and it definitely won’t be my last!
Quick drive and a soak
Getting to Lake Tahoe was easy for us, and that’s saying a lot, given the extreme weather they’ve endured over the past month. We flew Southwest to Reno with a short layover in Las Vegas on the way out and via Denver on the way home. It’s only about four hours’ flight time. We were very fortunate to arrive under clear skies after one storm and take off for home in a light drizzle ahead of a deluge of impending rain.
We rented a car and made the quick drive down to Carson City, about 20 minutes south, in time for a late lunch and a soak at Historic Carson Hot Springs. Since the 1800s, people have enjoyed basking in the natural hot springs under sunny skies here. The natural spring now feeds several outdoor pools with varying temperatures as well as indoor jetted pools. It was just what we needed after our early morning flight and scrumptious fare from the restaurant and microbrewery next door.
From Carson City, we made the short drive up and over the mountain pass and down to the shoreline of Lake Tahoe. Chains or a 4×4 vehicle with snow tires are often required during snowy weather, but we were lucky to make the drive under sunny skies. If you’d rather not drive, several shuttle companies operate roundtrip between Reno and destinations around Lake Tahoe. We centered our stay in South Lake Tahoe for the abundance of hotel choices, ease of skiing access and array of entertainment and non-skiing activities.
Nevada or California?
Nevada or California? That’s the tough choice you’ll have to make when choosing lodging in South Lake Tahoe. The state line straddles the lake and bisects the town. On the California side sits Heavenly Village with shops, restaurants, the ski gondola and lakeside cottages and hotels. On the Nevada side, you’ll find more motels, cottages and condos, plus Harrah’s, Harvey’s, Bally’s and the Hard Rock hotels and casinos.
Normally on ski trips, I like to stay either slope-side or in the village as close to the lifts as possible. Heavenly’s layout was a bit different, and my husband doesn’t ski, so we opted to stay in town rather than slope-side. Lake Tahoe boasts 14 ski resorts along its shores and all of them offer panoramic lake views from the mountaintops along with tremendous terrain. Heavenly Mountain Resort looms over South Lake Tahoe, and you can catch the gondola from the village base or jump on lifts at the other base lodges in both California and Nevada.
It’s not often you can ski from state to state, and now that Seven Springs and Hidden Valley resorts here in Southwestern Pennsylvania are owned by Colorado-based conglomerate Vail Resorts, they’re part of the Epic Pass. That gives skiers and snowboarders additional access to resorts across the country included in their local season pass.
Hotel prices were surprisingly affordable in early March on both the California and Nevada sides. Summer is huge for tourism here with boating and hiking, but whatever time of year you visit, you’ll be surrounded by crowds from nearby Sacramento and San Francisco.
What we noticed all week was just how friendly everyone is in Lake Tahoe. Whether it’s the locals working at your hotel or restaurant or fellow skiers and boarders visiting for the weekend, everyone was just chill. Despite huge lift lines at times, no one pushed or shoved, and everyone was smiling. Maybe it’s the fresh mountain air or the epic powder, but it was refreshing to chat with fellow skiers not intent on pushing their way in front of you.
When looking for accommodations, beware of extra resort and parking fees for the casino hotels, which is another reason we chose the Postmarc Hotel and Spa Suites on the California side. Their price was right, and our king suite included a huge, jetted tub along with free parking, all just a mere one-mile drive up the road to Heavenly’s California base lodge.
Jewel of the Sierras
Lake Tahoe is known as the jewel of the Sierras and stretches along 70 miles of coastline. With my Epic Pass, I could ski at Heavenly in South Lake Tahoe but also at Northstar on the north shore and Kirkwood, about a 20 minute-drive south of the lake. Given that roads were constantly snow-covered, plows had amassed roadside piles 20 feet high, and winds gusted most of the week, we decided to stay planted safely in South Lake Tahoe with my focus on skiing Heavenly all week. There is more than enough terrain to keep you busy, and I skied five long days criss-crossing from the California to Nevada sides on fresh powder and fluffy groomers. Some days were full of sun while others offered near zero visibility and pouring snow, and it was all glorious! I had always wanted to make it to Heavenly’s near 10,000-foot peaks and stare down at the crystal blue water of Lake Tahoe. That stunning view did not disappoint, and it was difficult to keep skiing and not stop to take in the scenery all day long!
When my legs needed a break from skiing the powder, we found fun activities off the slopes. Several spots offer snow tubing, and we had fun flying down the runs at Tahoe Snowmobile’s Stateline tubing location. It’s not as affordable as tubing at resorts here at home, and you’ll have to tote your tube back up the hill yourself since there’s no rope tow, but it’s still a fun way to spend a few hours in the sunshine.
Speaking of snowmobiles, we signed up for one of the many tours you can take either driving your own sled or riding in pairs. Lake Tahoe Adventures picked us up for their summit snowmobile tour in gorgeous Hope Valley south of Lake Tahoe. We began at an elevation of 7,200 feet and climbed the winding trail looking west across Faith Valley with views of the 10,000-foot Sierra Crest under brilliant blue skies and sunshine.
No ski trip is complete without some après ski (“after ski”) happy hour action, and you’ll find all of it in Heavenly Village right beside the Gondola Base. Choose from places with outdoor fire pits, DJs and even a spot offering champagne flights and chocolate. For more hearty fare, head to MacDuff’s Pub in South Lake Tahoe. This cozy little cottage is just the place for local craft brews and incredible Irish fare like corned beef and cabbage and shepherd’s pie … after all, we did visit in March!
For a wonderful way to end your evening and your South Lake Tahoe adventure, book a table early at the Chart House perched high in the hills and enjoy dining on delicious steak and seafood as you take in the mesmerizing vista of Lake Tahoe at sunset.