‘Everything can’t be traditional’
Ronalyn and George Apodiakos
The Greek Pasta is a flavorful dish of spaghetti topped with spinach, tomatoes, garlic, Kalamata olives, feta cheese and olive oil.
The exterior of By George.
A variety of craft beers are on tap, including local brews such as Bloom Brew in West Newton and Fatheads on Pittsburgh’s South Side.
DJ Woodward, a line cook, makes a surf-n-turf burger and a cheeseburger.
DJ Woodward, a line cook, makes a surf-n-turf burger – an eight-ounce burger topped with shrimp sauteed in Old Bay cream sauce, Swiss cheese, lettuce, tomato and onion.
A waitress serves grilled chicken salads topped off with a blend of cheese, fries, tomatoes, cucumbers and Kalamata olives.
It’s not a bygone expression of excitement – By George is a literal reference to the restaurant owner’s influence on the eclectic Mediterranean menu. George Apodiakos, his wife Ronalyn, and their five children all have a hand in the family business that has evolved from a modest gyro shop at the Monessen Fireman’s Club to a full-fledged eatery with locally brewed beer.
“We kept getting requests for our special items that we could only feature a couple of times, so George saw it as an opportunity to go full-time with his passion of cooking,” Ronalyn says of her husband’s eight-year endeavor to serve up Gyros and other Greek fare.
Some of the Greek favorites get a modern and casual twist, like gyro dips, a creamy blend of lamb and cheeses baked bubbly brown and topped with diced tomatoes, onions and served with pita chips.
“It’s like a suped-up artichoke dip. Everything can’t be traditional,” George says.
Tradition is letting the kids get involved, with tasks like dish washing, bussing tables and waiting on guests. Seldom does a 12-year-old – the couple’s son, Dimitri – become the experimental dessert chef. Nicknamed ‘the dessert specialist’ by regulars, Dimitri whips up novel items such as baklava cheesecake and pies lined in a pecan crust. As of this writing, he was experimenting with a sweet potato cheesecake in the kitchen. But some regulars prefer the ready and familiar.
“Ain’t no place better in Monessen to get a steak,” says Kevin Iacovangelo. “You walk through this door and you don’t feel like you’re in Monessen anymore.” Iacovangelo says the family atmosphere makes him comfortable; so comfortable he became friends with the family and has gone on golfing trips with George through New York and New Jersey.
“Those are functional field trips. He sees a diner or a bakery, he says, ‘We have to stop!’ and he’s doing research on incorporating new ideas into the menu,” Iacovangelo says. “And it’s the few times I get to eat dessert for dinner!”
Jamie Kepich, the head chef at By George, says there’s still plenty of Greek influence on the menu, but it’s all about eclectic experimentation while keeping fan-favorite staples. Lamb shish kabobs are available right alongside fresh Norwegian salmon and hummus, in addition to a rotating flatbread.
But one of the most unique draws of the eatery is its constant rotation of locally brewed beers. Ten beers are always available on draft, and Bloom Brew, in West Newton, usually has one or two handles on tap – the Yough River Trail India Pale Ale and the “Jeffeweizen,” one of the brewer’s name incorporated into a German-style hefeweizen, with flavors of banana and clove. And Pittsburgh regional drinkers will recognize bigger names like Fathead’s Bumbleberry, a blueberry ale. The restaurant does occasional “meet the brewer” events with tastings, too.
“It’s been a new adventure and we’re truly blessed. I never thought I would go from doing speech therapy to living a life of food and drink. It’s so great that we even have regulars that come from beyond the Mon Valley to visit and have a favorite item from time to time,” Ronalyn says.
By George is located at 1565 Grand Blvd. in Monessen. For more information, visit bygeorgeongrand.com.