Mar 29, 2018 4 min read

Joe Pappalardo was a Winky’s executive in the early 1970s, serving a hamburger chain that served a paper-thin patty inside a bun for 15 cents. Most of its locations were scattered throughout Western Pennsylvania, and all of them operated under the guidelines of two unpretentious slogans: “Fast Food Cheap” and “Winky’s Makes You Happy to be Hungry.”

He was hungering for something more, though – Pappalardo wanted to launch a restaurant.

“Dad figured he’d own his own place someday,” Patty Keller says, reflecting back 40-plus years to when he found one. The family lived in Youngwood, in Westmoreland County, and Joe’s job required him to be in a car often. On one of his excursions in the Mon Valley, a few hundred yards from the river, he found a not-so-idyllic spot that intrigued him.

It was an abandoned, forgotten and forlorn house in Speers, made of brick and more than a century old, its windows all broken, its condition sub-par. But, Pappalardo had a vision. “He said this will be a good restaurant,” Keller recalls.

Her father bought the three-story building in 1972, restored it for three years, then on Valentine’s Day 1975, opened a place that three generations have loved: The Back Porch Restaurant.

Standing on Speers Street, a short jaunt from Route 88, The Back Porch is a fine-dining destination spot, where lunch and dinner are presented in three dining rooms and patio (seasonal). It is renowned for its brick interior, cozy fireplaces, accommodating service – and food. Ribs and lobster bisque are favorites, along with a generous selection of desserts for those with the capacity to indulge.

There also is the Side Door Bistro, where casual fare is served during the evening.

“Service, food and atmosphere – you have to have all three to be successful,” Keller says. “People come here for all of the above. This is an unusual atmosphere, because it’s such a beautiful building.”

Henry Speers Jr., a descendant of the town’s founder, built that structure as his home in 1806. Local stone and river sand were used to make the bricks by hand on the property, where they also were baked. At the time, there was a young sycamore tree growing nearby – and it still stands on the property.

Keller owns the restaurant along with three of her siblings – Joe Jr. and sisters Jamie and Michele – plus Dave Mendicino. The Back Porch is within a half-hour drive of their front porches. Three of his six children live near Joe Sr., who recently turned 88 and still resides in Youngwood.

Seating capacity is 180, although that is usually not a practical scenario because a full house would put enormous demands on the chefs. The Back Porch employs about 30, including kitchen manager/chef Kevin Carson.

Two of Keller’s sisters operate nearby businesses. Michele and a friend run Speers Street Grill, which is essentially across the street. Jamie is at Two Fine Caterers, a catering and baking endeavor in Upper Speers that provides desserts to the family’s other two interests.

The Back Porch does have a rich, interesting history that would be even richer and more interesting if a local legend could be corroborated. During the Civil War, Henry Speers’ former home is believed to have been a stop on the Underground Railroad, “railroad” being a figurative term for a system that enabled slaves to escape to freedom in the north. Rumors still persist that there was a tunnel starting in the basement that led to the Monongahela River.

Keller said that business is steady, with a mix of regulars who show up at least once a week and diners who come from afar. “People travel an hour sometimes,” she says.

Her restaurant is closed on Mondays, but is open every other day. Only dinner is served on Sundays.

Joe Sr. accomplished a goal – the former fast-food executive built a place that makes you happy to be hungry.

Editor’s note: After this issue went to press, Joe Sr. passed away on March 26, 2018. Our condolences to the family.