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Holy Trinity, Washington

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Potato pancakes are hand cut and cooked in small batches at Holy Trinity National Catholic Church in Washington.

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A fish sandwich, macaroni and cheese and potato pancake from Holy Trinity National Catholic Church in Washington.

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A fish sandwich and potato pancake from Holy Trinity National Catholic Church in Washington.

This year marks the 20th anniversary of the Holy Trinity fish fry, and two decades of perfecting its fish fry shows. Nearly everything is handmade, from the hand-shredded potato pancakes cooked in small batches to the generously stuffed pierogies.

I had an opportunity to try most of the items on Holy Trinity’s traditional menu, and the fish sandwich is definitely the star. The batter is thin and lightly crisp, without being greasy. The flaky fish is at least an inch thick, and it comes on a nine-inch, soft hoagie bun. A close runner-up is the cabbage and noodels; the noodles are hand-cut, homestyle noodles, with big chunks of cabbage that don’t overpower the dish. My wife sampled the macaroni and cheese, which was elbow macaroni enveloped in thick, golden cheese sauce, and she says she is obsessed with going back for more.

If you go to Holy Trinity, expect a wait – the line wraps around the community center, and ordering consists of being handed a number, then paying, followed by standing around for your number to be called. Luckily, the volunteers run the fish fry like a well-oiled machine, so you won’t be waiting too long to bite into that golden-delicious fish sandwich.

– Nick Kratsas

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